switched key setup
( before starting, see #10 instruction for required info# )
Do read all this, before starting anywhere on your installation of tcHydro
1 ] Looking at your Vehicle, find an area that looks best for the 15-19" by 4" OD bottle under the hood somewhere, or trunk, where there is not allot of heat build up... If possible, you may be able to put it out front inside the front radiator grill area of the vehicle, where wind can keep it cool from driving... especially if your close to the equator. Other places, like extream cold climates, up north or south pole, do opposite towards heated areas, and even use a wire wrap with inverter onboard if installing in real cold places. Take your time to decide where to mount before you start the installation below. Also, I do advise to GET a colored pen, to keep with these instructions, YES, print them on paper, then as you go, circle each number upon completion of the task you perform.
2 ] If you don't have that ideal place, you must choose area of the vehicle,that is best, but first thing is to mount tcHydro some where that it can be used and accessed... Trunk installation frost transfer line supplied if needed, to go the extra distance. Keep in mind zz1 flame arrestor goes in between the Cell, and the ignition source such as intake manifold. But try for short distances to engine if possible... Use 1/4 t or 3/8 T connector Watts Brand, A-191 or A-291 for connections into the pcv line chemical transfer line, going into intake manifold beneath the carburetions or injectors, on the engine as seen on the electrical schematic enclosed. If you are unfamilar with your own engine, then get a manual for the vehicle, such as haynes, or Chiltons, so to help you determine the best entry way for the flamable air hydrogen fuel to enter the intake manifold at. All engines, have to have oxygen gas to run. So yes, there is a best entry way always. You can also use this type manual for other important task as to shut down gasoline consumptions, in place of the hydrogen fuel such as by using poteniameters and other type regulators for enhancing hybrid fuel miles. Other transfers are like the brass barb is for check pcv valve in the air open barb, which can be using the needle valve Watts A - 41, or a secondary tcHydro electrolyser cell. Such as in stacking, (Dual Parallel) fuel cell installations. For more fuel making power. Yes, the more of them you stack on, the more hydrogen fuel you make per second. WARNING - LOWER SECTION > DO NOT MOUNT THIS SECTION < This is a Safety Explosion Exit. Unless, it has the Fire in the Hole section. Fire in the Hole sections add ease of maintenance to the product, so that yes, when its time to change the electrode, it can be fast and easy to do so. Only mount top and center of container to fixed steel of the truck or auto. So that yes, Fire in the Hole sections or the Explosion Exit sections can so release immediate for both purposes. In the event of using the Fire in the Hole Section, instead of Explosion Saftey exit section, it is mandatory to use the zz1 flame arrestor.... Even if your using this installation on a stand still type setup, such as for cooking or heating purposes.
3 ] It is necessary to prevent shocks, and damages to all electrical components that are included in the Kit itself, etc., WARNING - So, unhook the ground wire battery cable First on the vehicle, Negative to the battery, so that all electric power is disconnected from the frame of the vehicle. Before going any further with this installation. Next, go to the fuse panel box in the vehicle, find a 30 amp fuse inside it that is actively used. Preferably from Switched Key, if this is only a single cell installation. If you do not have any 30 amp fuses, and they are less in number,\ choose the highest amp fuse such as 25, and use that one to connect to instead. Make sure you connect to a switched on with key fuse, so that when you turn off the ignition key, there is no current to that fuse connection. That is where you want to connect to. And by using this type switched on key connection, you will not need to have the warning alarm hooked up, that no, we do not include these in the regular kits. You may wish to leave the power hooked up, so to meter the terminals on the fuse box, to figure where to wire to switched key setup. But then, immediate disconnect after you are aware of where to wire your positive power to. If using a second seperate electrolyser cell, it is best to do a direct connect to the battery for number two cell and so on. Depending on how many you wish to use. Direct connects can so provide many more amperes for faster fuel production.
4 ] Mount the fuse block holder (supplied in kit) to that fuse by using the terminal connectors also supplied in the kit. It is the yellow flat terminal connector that should be used for this. Insert that terminal flat with the fuse you found into the fuse box together, so that good strong connection is made. Use other terminal connectors throughout the installation as needed. Use 12 awg red wire for all hot connections except sensor. (tc3b) model comes also with 10awg wire for extra HIGH AMP. Only use teminal connectors and not the fuse block for high amp fuses. As terminal blocks melt because they are made of plastic. Use with proper switching only, outside a switched key setup. See the dual schematic. Regular tc1Hydros, can also use a high amp situation. Switches are rated at 20 amps for 125 volts. On only 12 volts they may handle to 50 amps, depending on which switch type that you use. WE find, DPST are most safest and best, and can be double connected for up to double amps. Say, 80amps max.
5 ] Use the tc1Hydro CAD schematics to show diagrams of connections to be made. From there at the fuse box, take a hot wire and run it over to the switch, then from the switch over to the ampere gauge, making all connections very tight. From the Ampere gauge, go to the tchydro bottle on the side that is without the sensor next to it, that is hot connection farthest from the Temp sensor. Be careful not to break Temp sensor. The close to sensor 1/4 inch or 5/16 bolt is for GROUND only and NOT HOT connections. It is connected to the sensor with short 12 awg blk wire already installed in place for you. That wire is negative connection, so be careful how you wire it up. If desire is to have negative electrode as postive, you must remove the sensor wire from that terminal.
6 ] Next is, The fluid light bulb indicator on the switch itself, and it should be wired to the tc1hydro bottle (see CAD electrical schematic) and then
to the right side of the switch itself, so that when the switch is turned off, it cannot get any dc volts current. Those are the two connections of the light bulb source indicator for water low level indicator. Connection on the tcHydro bottle for this is the screw that is about 5 inches from the bottom of the container in the center of bottle. Note; all connections electrical electrodes are at the lower end of the tcHydro bottle, so make sure it is right side up when mounting the cell... This works on current activity inside the bottle, so that when the water level is low, there is no connection and no illuminate to the light bulb itself, telling you the driver, that it is empty.
7 ] Gauges should be mounted in place that are visible, to the driver. As the switch also should be in reaching distances while driving the vehicle... Mount the gauge for Temp and Amp, and then run small 18 awg color wire to the S on the back of the gauge. (see gauge instructions) use terminal connectors inside the gauge box for the sensor; wire all other connections as instructed in both sets of gauge instructions. For your Illuminations.
8 ] Once all connections are made on HOT side, of tc1Hydro, then connect the ground wire side using terminal connectors supplied in the tc1Hydro kit. Find either a good bolt to the frame or chassis, of the vehicle, or go direct to the battery if short enough the 12 awg black wire. Using the frame of the vehicle is just fine, and saves you much wire if needed.
9 ] Once all connections are made as to the CAD schematic included with these instructions, and you have made all the connections that
are shown on the gauge set instructions, and have double checked all of these instructions, By going over all the numbers and then recircle of them with the color pen, then it is time to add some water. Do not forget to reconnect the ground to the battery. And that should be the very last thing you do, even after adding the water sodium mix to the unit.
10 ] Before you add any the water, or (install) you must secure bottom end cap to the tc1Hydro unit. OR, the Fire in the Hole section
You may want to do this first, before you install the unit. Permatex High Temp silicon rtv gasket sealer or and normal plumbers seal tape is needed to do this. 26B part#. Formador De Juntas - We do not supply this as it is possible to make a mess inside shipment of the product itself. It is a normal silicon gel, or tape, that is used in automotive applications. Such as gaskets. Or in plumbing supply. Apply this heavly as a gasket, and make certain is screwed on tight, so to not create any leakages. If unit leaks, you did not do it right. Which means, you have to reapply the silicon or tape yes, to the threads again, then retighten. So you should first obtain this at any auto parts store. It is red in color, And then test it, before mounting. Only use Permatex High temp RTV Gasket sealer. In warm locations on the planet. Others will work in colder climates. Such as blue permatex. We also do not do this so that you can open the tcHydro, and take a close look at the electrodes inside the bottom of the unit.... Before install, Making sure there is not contacting in between them at all, before your install. We do check this and bench test before shipping. But to be certain and safe, we feel is best if you do the last viewable check before installing the tcHydro unit.
Normally, tc1Hydro goes about 70 to 150 miles before refilling, depending on amps of catalyst, Like 150 is 15 amps, and the other is 30 amps, and requires only mild maintained helps. Like Adding more water. Once every couple of months or so, you may want to remove end cap, flush it out with good garden hose sprayer, to keep build ups of catalyst and iron oxides, from developing taking place inside the unit. Iron oxide is not rust, but is brown in color element. You can also clean the units level indicator screws, with long handle wire brush or easy wire rotary drill brushes using cordless drills. Making it simple and fast. The unit will perform much better, if this is all done with the perodic maintanence ...
11 ] CREATING YOUR SODIUM CATALYST _ Mixing of catalyst for electrolysis, - This can be done with normal Baking Soda added into the water. Or potasium hydroxide. (salt) We use and advise the Arm and Hammer as your sodium to start with. Typical.... The pre mixture is @ 12 teaspoons of Arm and Hammer Baking Soda to 1 gallon of distilled water... Use that once mixed up, and shake it real good, to add it into the tc1Hydro unit. Leaving 4 inches at the top open up for collective gasses, as yes, this is a wet cell. Once you have it inside the unit the mixture. Then test, we always found it best to add maybe one more teaspoon catalyst into the unit itself. As to where you wish your amps to run at. To bring the amps up needed at about 15. For a 30 amp wire. Always start without the full amount of the wire size capability. For once its running for an hour, it will become much warmer and hotter depending on your climate conditions. And as warmth, rises, so does the amperes by itself. This is how you adjust the amount of hydrogen created inside each unit. Finding the hot point. By adding more catalyst to water. To increase amperes.
12 ] Using distilled water, will prevent corrosions better of the electrodes, for they are with less acids, better than any city water, or well waters. Do not exceed 30 amps of catalyst, for a normal 32990 kit, it is not necessary. Ocean water can be used, but go mild on the catalyst. 15-25 is fine for 12 awg wire size. Exceeding amps of 25-30 will cause much hotter temperatures, and may exceed wiring limits. 30amp is 12 awg wire limit. Possibly causing damages of unit and vehicles wirings. For more fuel production, do direct connection type settups to the battery. Do not use the fuse terminal blocks inside the vehicles. And, use correct wire sizes for the higher amperes desired of. See our chart online that tells you these size of wires for which fuel productions you are interested in. Yes, larger vehicles require more fuel production to get the good savings. If you do not do that, do not expect good fuel savings. Inverters are a plus... Normal operating temperatures is about 180 degrees on the Temperature gauge, of these units, in the norm, southern United States areas, once unit is warmed up and running of. 200 is ok and fine still, do not exceed past 250F. Shut down unit and check it quickly. ABS 1 is only ASTM at 250F. We in all our test of tc1Hydro, at even 70 amperes running, have only seen 225f on our gauges. About 15 amps on amp gauge will be prime for start up, unless you are in a winter climate, then make it more. Or on direct connect.. Only small retard of timing in older type vehicles. Non computerised types. Our experience is about 1-2 degrees advance timing, depending on type vehicle, for hydrogen is quicker ignite fuel. But really it burns, actually , much better than gasoline. Cleaner.
One may view NASA pages of our knowledge data base studys online for actual production of this product.
TRUNK installations ;
NOTE; Chemical transfer lines are intersecting, Clear Frost, so they can be used together, Frost can go inside Clear, sealed with clamp w /gray adapter for a good connection to be made ....! Use hose clamp wire tie for good tightness and seal.
Enjoy tcHydro Fuel making electrolyser Cells - from www.trueCarpentry.org
password and username necessary for FAQ'construction instruction sections, on website, and is on only your CD ROM.
(((SPECIAL NOTE FOR b>BOOSTED ' 24 ARC 32 QUAD or tc3b owners of tc1Hydro's))),& 30amp limit,
Do not use 12 to 1 ratio starting solution. We recommend starting solution of 8 to 1 as 24 Arc is higher fuel producing unit.
This applys also to tc3b electrodes. You can use small siphon pump to remove solutions from unit, and adjust add more water only if necessary. Once your catalyst is adjusted and set, only then water is needed for refill afterwards. As catalyst stays inside the unit. See catalyst shift changing instructions on your CD rom for better understandings of this issue. PS, if using potasium hydroxide as catalyst, please be mild on mixture, and do not use unit on aluminum headed engines. As KOH, and this type engine, are not compatible. To be safe, stay with bicarbonate sodiums, such as baking soda as your catalyst, if running aluminum headed engines.
CAUTION, Aluminum and KOH elements, makes hydrogen fuel.